Risk & Rewards, Winter on the Bluffs

A bit of background first
More people are hiking up the bluffs of Devil’s Lake State Park than ever, and more social media channels are promoting it. Thing is, just like calling Pewit’s Nest SNA a “swimming hole”, they aren’t doing us any favors. So before we talk about whether you should do it, let me give you a bit of background so you know where we’re coming from.

My wife and I have been winter hiking and snowshoeing up the bluffs for, well, it feels like centuries. Over that time, we’ve learned to read the conditions, choose the safest routes, and recognize which cliffs get dicey, where hidden holes and drops can sit under overhanging snow, where ice tends to build in dangerous ways, where stairways simply vanish in drifts, and where the strongest winds can create whiteouts in seconds.

Beyond that, I have experience guiding in the backcountry (and kayak guiding on the Great Lakes), with wilderness first aid training, etc. I worked as an EMT, and I’ve done my share of expedition paddling. My wife, of course, is the park naturalist, and we’ve hiked together from the Rockies to the Alps. It’s that combined experience that lets us feel comfortable hitting the bluffs in just about any season or weather. And the rewards of experiencing nature at its most raw are… well, almost indescribable.

Still, we wouldn’t just shout, “Hike the bluffs in winter!” or “Go off-trail, it’s fun!” without sharing the risks. That’s a good way to get someone hurt. With that foundation, here are a few things to consider if you’re thinking about it.

Let’s talk basics
Winter on the bluffs isn’t just cold, it’s a slow, steady drain on your energy. Wear warm, wicking layers that keep you dry rather than sweaty, and pack more than you think you’ll need, including water, snacks, and a fully charged phone. A small backup battery isn’t a bad idea either.

Your hands will thank you for good gloves, and once the wind gets moving up there, you’ll be glad for a hat that stays put. None of this is fancy gear, it’s just the foundation that keeps you comfortable and gives you some margin when things don’t go as planned. And if you’re heading out alone, let someone know your plan and when you expect to be back. It doesn’t have to be formal, just a quick check-in with a friend or family member so someone knows where you are if things go sideways.

A quick note about timing
Plan to get up the bluff and back down early in the day. The sun sets around 4:00 pm this time of year. You don’t want to deal with darkness as well as cold, snow, and ice.

About the trails themselves
Keep in mind that park staff doesn’t maintain the trails for winter use. In fact, the bluff trails are in rough shape any time of year, which means a real risk of injury from tripping or falling on a broken stairway. The southern East Bluff access trails in particular (Balanced Rock, Potholes, CCC) can be super risky. And there’s no promise the parking lots will be cleared either. In fact, there’s no promise anyone will be around for a timely rescue. If you get in trouble, call 911, but you may be waiting quite a while. That’s just the nature of our underfunded and understaffed state parks today.

What you wear matters
Wear winter hiking boots and ice cleats. You need traction. Sun-facing trails and stairways are often icy, or worse, snow-covered and icy. One slip can lead to serious injury. Even on the “flat” Tumbled Rocks Trail, you’re taking a risk. That trail is in poor condition too, with tripping hazards, holes, and drops on both sides of the narrow path. So whether you’re on the bluffs or Tumbled Rocks, good ice cleats are a must. We generally recommend Yaktrax Diamond Grips or Kahtoola MICROspikes.

Knowing where you are matters too
Study the maps, and make sure your phone or GPS stays charged and checked while you’re up there. People do get lost. Most make it down safely. But some get off trail into the talus (the boulder fields) where the danger increases tenfold. A paper map can help too, as long as you know your directions or carry a small compass. None of this is complicated, but it gives you options if your phone quits or you lose the trail for a bit. So know your route, and ask yourself, if you get turned around, how would you find your way down? And remember, getting down is usually harder than getting up. The snow packs differently, the ice sets differently, and your legs are more tired. Keep that in mind as you plan your route and your timing.

A word about cliff edges
I could tell you stories that would make your teeth clench. Snow drifts form around the open cliffs, filling or bridging gaps and making ledges look bigger and more solid than they are. If you push it… Well, don’t. Stay back. Bring a walking stick or trekking pole to test the ground in front of you.

Snowshoes and false confidence
When we head up the East Bluff in winter, especially after fresh snow or during a storm, we usually wear snowshoes and come up from the back, either from Steinke Basin on the trail, or directly through the forest. On the West Bluff we’ll approach from the south end or from South Shore Road. But remember, there are stairways everywhere, long and short. Snowshoes can quickly become skis depending on the style. We recommend backcountry snowshoes with cleats, like MSR Lightning Ascents. There are other good options, but you want shoes that grip from the sides as well as underfoot. Even then, in deep snow on a staircase, without good technique, you can still slide.

Wrapping it up
I’m sure I’m missing some points here, but winter on the bluffs is not something to fear, it’s something to respect. The quiet up there is deeper, the views feel sharper, and the sense of being part of the natural world rather than just passing through it is hard to describe. If you take the time to prepare, pay attention to conditions, and stay within your own comfort and skill level, it can be one of the most rewarding experiences in the park.

Just go in with your eyes open. The bluffs don’t owe us safe passage, especially this time of year, but they’ll offer something remarkable to anyone who takes the care to travel them wisely.